At the halfway mark of the Camino - Days 5 & 6

Here we are, Days 5 & 6 completed and we're halfway done The Camino. 397 km completed, 386 to Santiago de Compostela. And, to make us smile even more, most of the hill climbs are behind as well.

At risk of boring you with ride details, especially the hill climbs, this morning was a brutal climb, most of which was pushing the bikes up the hill. 1030 meter climb at an average grade of 14%. Topping the climb off was this beautiful late sunrise view looking east toward Castojeriz, last nights stop. Now, what goes up must come down ... our descent was 620 meters at an 18% grade, on gravel. Now we know the value of disc brakes.

According to the maps, the majority of our remaining ride will be flat, mostly gravel (think Lochside Trail), some pavement. 

Our bikes have done well. Today they deserved a good cleaning and chain lubing. 

Northern Spain has experienced another drought with little rain last winter and virtually nothing available for irrigation this summer. Hectare after hectare of grain fields, interspersed with sunflower fields have dried up from thirst. 

Tonight we are staying at our first Albergue, in the small village of Ledigos. An Albergue is a shared-accommodation, sort of hostel and inn combined. Albergue's are the norm for pilgrims and fill up early in the afternoon. The Camino "walkers" tend to finish their day around 2 pm so that they can be assured a bed. Camino "cyclists" go on for another couple of hours which makes an Albergue bed a little more iffy. 

This is not an Albergue :-) It is the ruins at San Anton and now another UNESCO world heritage site.

Tomorrow is Leon. Time to break out the dancing shoes and learn to Flamenco! With the wind at our backs ...

Ciao! 

The Camino provides ... Day 3 and 4

Yesterday (Day 3) and today (Day 4) were unexceptional and, at the same time remarkable. Unexceptional in that we had to "slog" through many kilometres and climbed thousands of meters before descending and then climb again. The path is not always pleasant, but that is the point of the Camino after all.

Just when you think that you may never find the next town, or your next meal or help to carry your load, we've learned to say, appreciate and understand that the Camino provides. While the next town may still be miles away, the next meal hours to go, and no one around you on the road ... help seems to always arrive. 

At the uppermost altitude on the Camino (Alto de Valbuena), we found an oasis with water, coffee, food and hammocks for the weary. Our ride up to this elevation this morning was 2 hours non-stop, one foot over the other, just keeping the pedals moving.

By mid-day today we rode into the city of Burgos, the state capital. Our ride was through the industrial section of town and our hopes were not high. When we arrived at the centre of the city and caught first glimpses of the Centro de Cuidad, with the most amazing gothic cathedral at one end and the Roman fort just up the hill, it nearly took our breath away. This evening, as apparently happens every Saturday evening, the city squares become alive with music, dining, dating, and thousands of city residents filter down to celebrate the end of one week and the beginning of another.

In our previous post, I promised to only post one picture of a door. I'll also promise to only post one picture of a coffin ... 

After all, how could you not post a photo of the coffin and remains of El Cid who was born in this town. Remember that El Cid fought for both Muslims and Catholics, always (so it is said) in the rightful pursuit of justice. 

Vuelta a Español aka Day 2 on the Camino

Some observations on Day 2 ... I've always found days 2 and 3 to be the most challenging. Day 1 you're all excited about the ride, the tour, the vacation and adrenaline tends to carry you along the way. Day 2, you're thinking "meh, maybe I'll just sleep another 15 minutes." Day 3, you're saying "what the *%@& happened to my legs?" By Day 4, you're over the butt discomfort and your legs feel like they could ride forever.

In case you think that we might be taking it easy on Day 2, think again! Today, we rode (on the road) a section of Stage 17 of the Veulta a Español...Spain's Tour de France. 

Our ascent today was just over 1000 meters! 

Along the Camino you have a chance to meet lots of interesting people; hear many interesting stories. You can also be entertained ...

Today was the harvest festival for the grape growers in the state of Rioja. The entire city of Logrono was celebrating and wine was flowing. Even the monastaries and wineries dispense wine (for free) to those on the Camino ... red wine from the left spigot, water from the right. This winery dispenses approx 1000 litres/day to those on the Camino. 

Our destination today is the town of Navarette. The most famous Catholic church in this part of Spain is located here in this tiny town of - maybe 2500 people. "Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion" was built in the early 1500's with an apse that looks like this ...

And yes, that is all gold! 

Finally for today, you can't be on a cycle tour and not take pictures of interesting doors. Here is the one (& only) that we'll post on this trip :-) 

Ciao...

Buen Camino - the tortoise & the hair

I've cycled tons as an adult ... city cycling, cycle touring, commuting, road cycling, racing, endurance ... the point is that today's ride on the Camino - a mere 50 kms - may have been the most challenging 4 hours on a bicycle ever. 

Start at the start. When we checked in to our hotel in Pamplona yesterday only Judy's bike had arrived. My bike was nowhere to be found. After hours of searching, the bike (box) was located, still at the Pamplona airport. First thing in the morning, I hopped into a taxi to the courier company's office at the airport and after a few translation challenges, the bike box was found, the bike was assembled and I was in the saddle for the ride back to the city. 

Our normal early morning start ended up as a new normal or temporarily normal 12 noon start! 

There is a special place in heaven for Spanish farmers. How they manage to grow fruits & vegetables between the rocks must be close to a miracle. In Spain, I think that they actually must cultivate rocks, 'cause they are everywhere! 

While today's ride was 50km from Pamplona to Estrella, we must have passed & been passed by the same pilgrims 5 ... 6 ... 7 ... times. We would pass them on the flats or downhills, they would pass us on the climbs or uphills. We climbed just under 1000 meters, all of which was in amongst fields of rock!

We did manage to find our angels today. You might remember our story of angels in Budapest (if not, that's ok too). Today our angels were a Cuban, a Canadian and an Italian who helped us bring our bikes & gear up a steep, washed out rock face. Then, they disappeared on us ... curious. 

When all you have is a package of Mentos and your starving, well ... I guess that you go for the mints :-)

We arrived in Estrella with no room reservations. (Note to self: Mistake not to be repeated). Lots of phone calls resulted in a beautiful room at a nice hotel a short distance from the city centre. 

In only one day, it's becoming obvious why people travel the Camino. It's about life, about being who you are, about living. Today we witnessed pilgrims who are searching for a miracle. Far be it from us to judge them. Their life challenges, dare us to see them differently. It is inspiring! 

... talk soon 

Ready, Set ... viva la españa

It has been such a long time since I have published a blog post of our cycling adventures! Today's post is a test of a new app, and it's publishing capabilities. 

Real blogging begins in earnest on September 17.