Day 9 (Astorga to Ponferrada) was one of the more challenging days. (Understatement ...) Starting at an elevation of 500m, we climbed to just over 1500m with grades averaging out to a modest 3%. The killer was the descent down to 510m. In one section of the descent, we hit a 26.6% grade. I'm not sure about you, but we were ecstatic to have disc brakes.
Day 10 (Ponferrada to Las Herrerias) gave us a little bit of a break. 45km at a blistering pace of 16kmh and we found ourselves in one of the most bucolic scenes imaginable. The "Rural Inn" that we had booked is owned and run by a brother/sister team who manage the property to perfection. We arrived early (blistering pace) and were greeted warmly by the owners. The terrace and grounds overlooked a pasture filled with cows and their newborn calves. The valley view however was ominous as it provided a preview of the big climb - aka muy alta - that was in-store for us the following day.
Day 11 (Las Herrerias - Sarria) ... While I don't often use the word "proud" to describe my feelings, I'm making an exception to describe how I feel about Jude's conquering a 1000m climb today. Absolutely outstanding! Once we emerged from the clouds and began our descent into Sarria, we both realized that "we had done it!"; that the balance of the ride to Santiago would be not only doable, but a pleasant experience and time for us to sit back in our saddles and enjoy the view :-)
One of the things that we learned about the Camino is that "pilgrims" only need to complete the last 100kms to get their credentials. That makes Sarria a very popular place! From this point to Santiago de Compostela we will be joined by the "taxi" and "bus" brigades, which is the description used for those who complete their 100km by hopping in and out of buses and cabs in order to get their passports stamped. Just serves to illustrate that even the Camino is not immune from abuse.
A couple of notes:
Best place to stay (so far): Paraiso del Bierzo 9/10 (if only it had a spa it would be a slam dunk 10/10)
Best food (so far): little hole in the wall in Sarria, owned and run by young Italians who make the best Italian food this side of ... well, Italy! Matias Locanda.
Best bike shop: thank goodness we have only needed one bike service so far. Front disc pad replacement ... huge thanks and appreciation to "Taller de Bicycletas" in Villafranca del Bierzo! In addition to being an awesome bike mechanic, he also sells Ridley and Pinnerello.
With 100km left to go, our next posting will likely be once we reach Santiago de Compostela and we've taken the opportunity to reflect on this experience.
And, it has been an experience!
Stay tuned ...
No comments:
Post a Comment